Nob Hill
By Nina Wu with contributions from Elan Schmitt and Karen Solomon
The passionate backdrop of San Francisco, Nob Hill is the City’s classic views, architecture, and hotels. Often the setting for film noir scenes because of its breathtaking heights and Bay exposure, this part of town packs all of the drama of the silver screen. Few events can rival the romance of a perfect day in Nob Hill.
potted
palms and a sort of peaceful luxury. Tom Wolfe, a longtime concierge
at the Fairmont, will tell you the story of when he got caught riding
a bike in the Senate chambers as an elevator boy. Shortly after that
he landed a job driving a limo for John F. Kennedy when Kennedy was a
Senator and then made his way into the hotel service business. Wolfe,
who has worked both in Japan and London, speaks Japanese, French, Italian
and Spanish. Stick around the Fairmont until nightfall and you will be treated
to the spectacular piano playing of Eric Shifrin playing show tunes
and oldies. (See Stardust,
Applejack & Our Town.) This is big-city piano-lounge music at
its finest. You are only going to get this in San Francisco, New
York, and maybe Paris. Eric also sings and plays the saxaphone, but here
you will only hear him on piano. He can also be heard at the Washington
Square Bar & Grill (Herb Caen's "Wash Bag") and Enrico's.
Have Norman fix you a Compari & sweet Vermouth with a splash of cognac,
then sit back and enjoy such tunes as "Don't Explain," "I've
Got My Love to Keep Me Warm," and
"My Old Flame." 
the “Hurricane
Bar” has been a popular place for locals and visitors alike to
flock for that vacation feeling of paradise. The Tonga Room is a cocktail
haven filled with fancy drinks and a happy-hour tasting buffet. Vines
climb the stone walls and emulate a sunken shipwreck. The “Blue
Hawaii” is one of their specialties drinks and like all the cocktails
on their menu, it’s served well-garnished and booze-heavy. You
might want to bring a raincoat just in case the lightning and rainstorm
begins, as there’s a simulated storm indoors every half hour. Once
the band starts playing at 8 p.m. in the center of the old hotel pool—accessible
only by boat—you will loosen up like you never have before. Relax and
enjoy paradise. 
step
into the wood-panel, dark, cool interior of the Big Four Restaurant (1075
California), part of the Huntington Hotel and named after the four railroad
barons who once lived atop Nob Hill. This spot is for those who truly
want the old-school style of service, with no lace and no frills. The
interior is all wood, brass and leather—and though the clientele
is mostly male, women are equally welcome. The walls are decorated with
early California memorabilia, including portraits of Leland Stanford,
his wife and son, and the original Mark Hopkins Mansion. Tyrone Saunders,
a bartender there for more than 10 years, will pour a hospitable martini
or Manhattan. "This is an old-fashioned-drink kind of place," he
said. Loyal customers and hotel guests have been coming in for two and
three decades or more. Big Four has an extensive list of wines and ports.
Caesar salad and potpie are also available. 
resident
moved on up the Hill, and left a more casual bistro called Watercress
back in its Valencia Street location. Situated just across from Grace
Cathedral, Watergate is a relative newcomer on the block, having moved
there in 2002. With the location change came a new look. The simple bar
is paired with a cozy lounge area with large cushioned chairs and booths
that invite romance. Chef and owner Walter Laing fuses French and Asian
influences into his cuisine. Try the Warm Lobster Martini for a Petites
Assiettes and the Roasted Pecan/Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb for the Grandes
Assiettes, which showcases his clever melanges of flavors. Sit
by the open kitchen to see the entire preparation of the meal. 
treasure: Rue
Lepic Restaurant (900 Pine). Named after a street in Paris in
the Montmartre, Rue Lepic is one of the best-kept secrets in San Francisco.
This quaint French restaurant is certainly a mix of cultures; Japanese
artwork adorns the walls. That is the influence of the Japanese-born
chef, Michiko Boaccar, who has taken over full-time duty as chef from
her French husband who is retiring. Trained by her husband, Chef Boaccar
is creating dishes comparable to genuine Parisian cuisine. The couple
originally met in San Francisco, then they moved to Paris and opened
a restaurant there. They decided to move back to the Bay Area after many
years abroad. Though the design may be influenced by Japan, the food
is purely French. The charming restaurant only seats 28 people, so be
sure to make reservations. Keep an open eye for celebrities who might
happen to drop-in. Keanu Reeves and Melanie Griffith are just two of
the famous personalities spotted dining there. 
meal
at a reasonable price. The outdoor cafe tables often have daytime
dwellers relaxing and enjoying an espresso with their dogs basking in
the sun. Fresh vegetables and herbs line the small open-air Italian kitchen
just to the left of the entry. The portions are big and the food is consistent. “Nothing
fancy but you always know you're going to get a great meal," said
one diner. It's unpretentious yet still sophisticated. “It's the
Italian version of Cheers”, server John Atwood claims. “Neighbors
call it their kitchen, a home away from home”, he says. “Often
times the locals eat here twice a day”, says Leonor Castilla, restaurant
manager. One regular customer says that she’s been coming to the
cafe for 15 years, and that her table is reserved for her on Tuesdays
at 6:00 p.m. Also, watch out for the San Francisco twins, Mary and Vivian
Brown. They'll be dressed to the nines. You'll be sure to spot them on
Tuesdays and Fridays at their reserved window table. 
seating used to be a gay bar in the 1960's, but these days
it's a white-tablecloth affair. A beautifully tiled wood-burning oven
draws almost everyone's attention. The upstairs provides a great view
of the Bay Bridge, and the energy of the small bar creates a bit of a
bustle. Chef Seamus Cronin was trained in Ireland to follow the Classical
French Brigade System, which emphasizes giving the diner exactly what
they want. The chef takes requests when making reservations and tries
his best to accommodate. Reservations are highly recommended at this
truly neighborhood restaurant that is packed almost every night. Venticello
does not advertise; but news of its memorable dining experience have
passed through the neighborhood by word-of-mouth. Try the Scampi E Pancetta
Fra Diavolo for a spicy kick-off to the meal. The gnocchi and ravioli
are also excellent and are all hand-made. 
eyes.
Opened in February, 2003, this cafe on the corner across from the Cable
Car museum features some of the highest quality coffee available. They
proudly serve La Colombe Torrefaction premium coffee and espresso from
Italy. The cafe also provides free Internet access and showcases local
artists. They close early; 6:00 p.m., so make sure to get there before
they close their doors. The barista will steam the milk to a smooth and
rich pillowing froth and create a design in it, too. We learned that
the secret to the milk was the Italian method of "stretching milk". Fill
the pitcher halfway with cold milk, then place the steamer nozzle just
below the surface and steam, aiming for a kissing sound. This is called “kissing
the milk”. The correct positioning adds just the right amount of
steam. Once warm, plunge the nozzle to the bottom, circulating the air
bubbles in the carafe. With enough caffeine in you to keep you going to
our next stop, step just a few blocks west 
of
Nob Hill to the aptly-named Sushi Rapture (1400 Leavenworth).
They offer a sensual selection of sashimi a la carte, special nigiri,
maki sushi and even teppan yaki (a sort of Benihana-like BBQ prepared
before your eyes). Co-owner Sam Ng hails from Macau and actually got
his start in the art of preparing sushi from his mentor, Michael, at
a Taraval St. restaurant called Okazu, way out by Ocean Beach. “Everything
I do is seasonal,” says Sam, who names tuna as his favorite fish.
Sam and his partner, Andrea Situ from Canton, China, sport the Japanese
punk-rock look, with spiked hair and all. Sam says owning the place is
a dream come true. He is truly obsessed with the fish he serves, and
he reports that he spends hours 
perusing
books about the biology of fish, their life cycles and ecology, all in
the pursuit of making the very best sushi he possibly can. The items
he created for the menu have special symbolic meaning. The Oyako (which
means mother and child in Japanese), is denoted with salmon wrapped around
a salmon egg. The Sunrise, which features a raw quail egg on top, stands
for the sun. The Eclipse Sushi (tuna with black caviar topped with a
raw quail egg) represents the moon and the sun together. Ah, the perfect
planetary reflection of a perfect day.